Miso Fish Chowder

1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as safflower or canola

4 ounces bacon (3 to 4 slices), sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 leek, white and light green parts, thinly sliced crosswise

2 celery stalks, diced (Tina's next-time adjustment)

Salt and black pepper

1/3 cup white miso (Tina's next-time adjustment)

1 (8-ounce) bottle clam juice (Tina's next-time adjustment)

1 pound small new potatoes, quartered

1 thyme sprig

2 cups water

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions

1 1/2 pounds center-cut cod, or other flaky white fish, cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks

Crusty bread or oyster crackers, for serving

1. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium. Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to a paper towel-lined plate.

2. Add butter, leek and celery to the pot, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add miso and cook, stirring and mashing with a spoon, until well incorporated and caramelized, 2 to 3 minutes. Add clam juice, potatoes, thyme sprig and 2 cups of water, and bring to a boil over high, stirring to lift up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Cover, reduce heat to medium and cook until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

3. Stir in cream and half of the scallions, and bring to a gentle simmer. Season fish with salt and add to pot. Gently poach until it is just cooked through and flaky, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and discard thyme sprig.

4. Divide chowder across bowls and garnish with the crispy bacon and remaining scallions. Serve with crusty bread or oyster crackers.